G.T. Fieros

Greater Toronto Fieros
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 9:24 pm 
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wannabe

Joined: Mon May 12, 2014 12:11 am
Posts: 80
That thing looks awesome! How does it work? I am wondering if I could use that on my 3800 system, and the intercooler system, if I can that might be worth the investment!

Kevin


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 6:28 am 
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Single again

Joined: Sun Nov 10, 2013 11:26 am
Posts: 292
Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
SSKev wrote:
That thing looks awesome! How does it work? I am wondering if I could use that on my 3800 system, and the intercooler system, if I can that might be worth the investment!

Kevin


It is awesome. You use shop air to blow through a tee. This creates a venturi effect effectively pulling a vacuum on the cooling system. Then you shut off the valve and remove the shop air. This is also checks for leaks. If the gauge goes down, there are leaks. If no leaks found, attach the hose to the tee and submerge the other end into a bucket of premixed coolant. Open the valve and it pulls the coolant from the bucket into the system. Thus, using vacuum to pull the coolant. And yes, it will collapse all your hoses into pancakes. I think it pulls 20-25 inches of vacuum on the system.

I'm quite certain there are many youtube videos of the filling procedure. I think the tool was a little over $100 and it makes perfect fills every time. I use it on Porsche and BMW cars quite frequently.

I've never tried it on an intercooler before.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2017 9:15 pm 
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wannabe
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Joined: Sat Jan 19, 2013 1:27 pm
Posts: 83
Location: Alliston (Just a short ride North of Toronto)
I changed out my spark plugs, wires and coil packs as I was getting a misfire on cylinder 1 and after switching the old coil pack around it went away the spark plugs and wires were the original parts on the engine I got from the wreckers and the coil packs I pulled at a u pull auto wreckers, so putting new all around was a good idea. Car runs great, also was easy to do, just did it at my work on the pit and that was great, haven't seen the underside of my Fiero since the swap and it's still rust free! I was amazed how well the fuel tank is holding up I removed it when I did the swap and painted it with spray can rock guard and it looks the same it did when I put it in. I'm going to Ottawa this weekend with her but that should be no surprise the Fiero is my daily driver from spring to first snowfall. I want a new project to work on like a 300zx manual roller that I can swap a Corvette engine into, that would be sweet!

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Ontario


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 10:24 pm 
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wannabe

Joined: Mon May 12, 2014 12:11 am
Posts: 80
I picked up one of those Airlift devices. I will use it once I get the engine back in. Now that I got my flywheel bolts today I will hopefully get the engine in the car this weekend!

Kevin


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2017 12:06 am 
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wannabe

Joined: Mon May 12, 2014 12:11 am
Posts: 80
Got a lot done this weekend. Found out the low mount alternator bracket I had won't work with an auto, so I will have to get a new kit.

Got everything mounted to the cradle on Saturday:

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Then got it bolted into the car today:

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It was a bitch to get the cradle bolted back in because of course I had somehow moved it out of alignment while I was installing the transmission and engine into the cradle.

But at least its in there now. I will be ordering a new kit for the alternator, and in the mean time I can work on the wiring I need for the auto (it was a standard before), and the shifter/linkage setup.

Wish me luck!


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 10:10 am 
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Newbie

Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2017 12:53 pm
Posts: 28
Do you think that low alt bracket would work with a series 1? I am in need of one...


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 1:59 pm 
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wannabe

Joined: Mon May 12, 2014 12:11 am
Posts: 80
It will work if you are using a standard transmission, and your alternator matches it. So you might need an alternator from a 99+ Grand prix (and the harness connecter if they are different) to use the bracket.

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Kevin


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 6:45 am 
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Single again

Joined: Sun Nov 10, 2013 11:26 am
Posts: 292
Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
I needed to quiet down the exhaust as having just a catalytic converter with two resonators was too loud. I ordered up a simple F-body muffler and some bits and pieces to make all this quieter.
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While many of you have a full exhaust and and an uncut trunk, great. I just decided it would be best to remove the lower section of the trunk. The added room was welcome. Besides, I don't travel heavy and I won't miss the space.
A Sawzall makes quick work of this.
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Now, I chose to notch the rear cradle crossmember as I wanted the muffler canted forward.
Here we go. Chop, cut, rebuild.
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Here's a few pictures of the trunkectomy.
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With all this room, I now had the ability to create a full exhaust system.
Here is it taking shape.
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It fits well and I like the look. I removed some Cadillac STS exhaust tips and added them to my car.
They are the only chrome item on the car. I might paint them black after the car gets painted, we'll see.
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An inner view.
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A worm's eye view of the exhaust.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 8:54 am 
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Addict
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Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2013 10:52 am
Posts: 246
Location: Port Credit, Mississauga
Pure art !!

Lunatic wrote:
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Brian
88 GT - 'Ol Blu


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 8:35 am 
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Single again

Joined: Sun Nov 10, 2013 11:26 am
Posts: 292
Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
Today, I spent some time working on electrical.
My power mirror switch backing plate was very loose and not making good contact. I cut one from a parts car and installed. Both power mirrors now work.
One more item checked off the "to do" list.
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As you know, I've swapped in a 2.2 Ecotec into this car. Since I'm using the stock PCM and BCM, and not the Cavalier cluster, I needed to make the Equus aftermarket tachometer work with the Ecotec. Here's how I did it.

By looking at the 2003 Cavalier wiring schematic, a tachometer trigger signal is sent by the PCM through the serial data line and to the cluster where it's converted.
Since I'm not using the Cavalier cluster, I had to go about this another way.

Looking at the PID value charts was useless as it merely states, "Not Used" on several pins.
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By using an oscilloscope, each pin labeled "not used" was checked.
Success was present when pin 32 on the blue connector showed an open collector output for a tachometer.

Since I had an aftermarket tach that doesn't have an internal "pull-up" resistor, I had to add one.
Note: I didn't have a 1K ohm (1000) resistor handy but I had some 1.2K (1200) ohm resistors in my collection.

The pull-up resistor pulls the open (collector) output up to +12V.
When the output transistor turns on, its collector terminal is connected to ground.
Hence the output is a square wave from near-ground to near +12V.

Here's the schematic that made it all work, simple really.
Note: I'm using PCM part # 12576162
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Since pin 32 was not used, there was no wire coming from the connector. I took another PCM harness pig tail and removed a white wire.
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Remove the turquoise clip and unlock the connector.
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This leads to exposed terminals and wires. I took a white wire just because.
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On the car, I had to undo the clip and disassemble the connector.
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Since cavity 32 was unused, I had to drill a small hole in order to place the connector through.
Here, you can clearly see the white wire protruding from cavity 32 on the blue connector.
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I extended this new white wire to the stock Fiero harness.
I then chose to add the pull-up resistor in the back of the instrument cluster.
In this location, I could tap into the two electrical points that I needed.
-The green wire is the tach signal wire.
-The resistor is then attached to the signal wire and the opposite end attaches to a keyed-on +12V.
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A little video to show that it actually works.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KihE5I_jdC8


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2017 4:59 pm 
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wannabe
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Joined: Thu Aug 24, 2017 9:55 pm
Posts: 55
Installed a new shift knob wrap - the old material on the previous wrap was not glued properly! drove me nuts. Now its in leather, Red.

Take a look

https://ibb.co/grEs5R

https://ibb.co/cFdVs6

Got it re-wrapped at this place in Vaughan called "Inzen Skin" - http://inzenskininc.com/

Paid 60 all in. Now onto the ashtray doors...

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Marcus
Red 1986 Pontiac Fiero GT 4 Speed 2.8
Woodbridge, Ontario


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 8:21 am 
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Single again

Joined: Sun Nov 10, 2013 11:26 am
Posts: 292
Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
Having cut the bottom of my trunk out, I now needed to fill the hole back in.
After a brief session with AutoCAD, I now had a trunk floor.
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A few minutes spent on the laser yielded the following component made from 16 gauge steel.
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I needed to weld in a piece of light angle in order to support the rear trunk floor.
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Here's the piece welded in.
For those that don't like counting, there were 98 holes that I had to plug weld.
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Liberal application of seam sealer followed.
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While I still need to paint the trunk floor, it'll have to wait for a warmer day.


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2018 7:49 am 
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Single again

Joined: Sun Nov 10, 2013 11:26 am
Posts: 292
Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
I now have a fully operational shifter. Woo hoo!

I wanted to use off-the-shelf parts for this modification. In this case, I'm referring to the stock '84 shift and select cables.

I'll let the pictures do the talking.

Here's my revised base plate.
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To which, I've welded on other components.
Here's the select cable bracket.
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I also needed a select arm lever. Triangulation at its finest.
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Some parts off the laser.
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I had to utilize the pivot and ball studs from the original F23 assembly.
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Not seen in the photo but the factory rubber isolator was removed and a bronze bushing was made on the lathe. This took up most of the slop in the shifter.
Here's the final product all painted and ready to install.
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Here, the stock '84 shift and select cables were siamesed for a little extra slack.
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This slack will be welcome when it comes time to remove the oil filter cartridge assembly on the Ecotec.
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The result? Is a fully operational shifter.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2018 12:38 pm 
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Creator of the SBC Fiero

Joined: Sat Jan 19, 2013 3:33 pm
Posts: 100
Hey Shane, you will want to put a heat shield under your trunk and possibly towards the rear bumper rebar with that exhaust setup. My dads car has a very similar exhaust setup and it nearly caused a fire and melted a lot of plastic (including a tool box in his trunk) even though he had the full carpet and added sound deadening material under it. His crush pads/ honey comb under the back bumper melted. I am having it redone it today (not in a drastic way, no time before the 35th) and will be using header wrap on the down pipe and cat and building a heat shield.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2018 2:10 am 
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Newbie

Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2013 3:30 pm
Posts: 43
Location: Toronto
Just an FYI, this heat shielding stuff is pretty awesome and useful in these projects. Not pushing this product specifically and there is at least one other manufacturer I found, who actually has been making it longer but this is easier to find and is available at a Canadian supplier for a reasonable price.

http://designengineering.com/form-a-shield/


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