G.T. Fieros

Too low mount the alt on the trunk side on the 3800 swaps you have no choice but to get a little close to the spark plug on cylinder #2 that is if you want the belt to line up and the alt to not hit the trunk wall or the tranny or the axle below the alt. Removing the belt and unbolting the alt is not that bad a job on a cold engine

netcam: re the backup cam, check that the head unit is in NTSC mode and grounds are good.

Also did you get a camera that has mirror/reverse mode? The Pioneer head units don't have a mirror mode like most other companies do.

_________________
Mark
1984 Indy Fiero
B O A T - Break Out Another Thousand

Not even sure what NTSC mode is, but I tried all the camera polarity settings (Off, Ground, Battery). There is a possibility that the ground is bad, the car did just go through a transplant so there's a chance it got knocked loose. I'll have to take the tail lights off to get at it though and it's pissing rain here for the next couple of days. I guess it will have to wait until the weekend. I did get a reverse camera, it worked great while it worked at all

NTSC is the analog video signal format - NTSC = north america, PAL = europe. If the setting is incorrect usually you'll see the image a bit messed up but in black and white, but some video receivers handle the issue differently.

The Pioneer 3500 receiver in my truck has that format select in one of the menus, that's why I ask what it is set at.

_________________
Mark
1984 Indy Fiero
B O A T - Break Out Another Thousand

Only a little progress. I installed the under-the-window-ledge brace. (This will aid in stiffness for the under-window mounted hinges.) And yes, I know the brace covers the holes for the wiring. This is fine because I'll be moving the wiring to another location, out of the way and a cleaner look.




Since I had my carpet out, I noticed the floor drain plugs were non existent. So I made four new ones out of galvanized steel.


I also noticed the brace below the fuel tank was very ugly. No problem, I made one of those too!


If I have any spare time this weekend, I'll try to finish off the welding on the rear cradle. I need to cap the ends, install the trailing arm brackets and finalize the rear sway bar mounting points. Then a quick sand blast and it's off to powder coat.


I did manage to minimize the Cavalier wiring harness down to what I need. I'll be using the BCM as well as it has some features that I'd like to utilize. A/C input for one. The Cavalier ignition also has PASSLOCK II integrated into it. I'll only keep this in place until I remove it using HP Tuners.

I suspect you'd have a (pff etc) market as well for the under gas tank brace, if you made a few extras from a template or otherwise

Okay, back to the cradle we go. I capped the ends, added two stiffener braces and made mounting points for the trailing arms.




I will machine down a spacer and install it between the two points shown. It'll help to spread the load.

Since I'm trying to remove all the crusty parts from my car, I decided a new rear bumper would be in order. So, here it is. 1/8" aluminum.

Do you give welding lessons?

where do I put an order in?

I was busy dealing with the estate and didn't get too much done on the Fiero. I did manage to repair two holes in the floor, install the floor plugs and lay down the jute backing.











I picked up some 18" wheels too! I'll need bigger wheels to clear the 13" rotors that I'm going to install.

sweet on the metal work! love that bumper!

Today, I'll clean up some light scale with a wire wheel, add zinc primer and add paint. All this in preparation for the 88 rear sheet metal. It was just easier to do it this way. Now I'll have the 88 specific strut towers.

I got really energetic today and did an oil change

Just out of curiosity, how are all of you with a 3800sc getting your oil filter off? I took one look at mine and realized if I took the right rear wheel off there would be a ton of room. I was able to get at it so easily I didn't even need an oil filter wrench. Out with the old and in with the new! Oh, and did I do the right thing by buying a Mobil 1 filter? I heard Fram are crap now.

Cameron, to make Fiero oil changes easier in the future, buy an oil filter relocation kit. Real easy to locate the filter to a "more suitable" area. If an oil filter fails, the pass-through valve opens and it just doesn't filter any more. You won't see/know anything is wrong. I won't comment on the quality of Fram but you be your own judge. Take the Fram oil filter apart. Remove the end cap and pull all the filtering composite out and inspect thoroughly. If you see the screen captured all contaminants, and nothing made it through the other side, then I'd say the filter did it's job.