G.T. Fieros

Greater Toronto Fieros
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 04, 2013 7:51 pm 
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Putting my front end back together after installing the new springs and ball joints. Went to drop the steering knuckle down over the new ball joint, and it seems to stop about 3/4" or so above where it needs to be. Is there a trick to getting the knuckle to drop down to the right level? I was thinking that putting the sway bar link on first was a bad idea, but then thought it should just push up if it needs room. When I was jacking up the LCA it got to the point where it was lifting the whole car and the ball joint wasn't going any further through the hole in the knuckle. Any help would be appreciated, I'm really hoping to get it back together before the deep freeze sets in again.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 04, 2013 8:44 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 24, 2013 11:41 am
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Location: Peterborough Ontario
Is the ball seated all the way into the lower control arm ok as it should just slide into the hole for it in the steering knuckle. Could it be the wrong ball joint I would compare it size wise with the one you removed.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 04, 2013 8:47 pm 
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Yup, the ball joint is seated right against the bottom of the LCA as far as it will go. Pretty sure the ball joints are the right size, they are Moog from Rock Auto.

Old and new:

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 04, 2013 9:52 pm 
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I was able to get it on properly (I think). I loosened off the sway bar link a bit and wiggled the knuckle around until it found the sweet spot and it slid right down. Only question now is, how far down do you turn the castle nut, just far enough to seat the cotter pin?

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 12:40 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2013 7:56 pm
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Location: Toronto
I've always cranked my down till the nut stops, then find the cotter pin hole to see if I need a little more of little less.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 5:20 pm 
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I torqued it to 55 (finally found it in the FSM) and then gave it 1/8 of a turn to line up the cotter pin. The only thing I had a problem with was the sway bar links, can't get a socket on the top because it's too close to the UCA and can't get it on the bottom because it's too close to the LCA, so I just guessed on the right torque there using a couple of open end wrenches. And of course, getting the dust boots on is a bitch too......

Any recommendations on best grease for the spindle and the ball joint? Hoping to put the rotors and calipers back on tonight.

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Edit: Found a way to help get the boots on. Thought about the heating (expanding) and freezing (shrinking) of the ball joints and LCA, and figured it might apply to the boots too. Took the boot and put it over one of my heat registers and let it sit there for a couple of hours. Waited until the furnace had been running for a while and grabbed it while it was still warm and pliable. Went out and was able to get it on with a minimum of force, which I guess with a piece of rubber that needs to hold grease in is a good thing :)


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